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Although traditional spring rifles can be used, pre-charged
(PCP) air rifles dominate due to their lack of recoil, making them easier to shoot
accurately. An accomplished shooter should be able to produce groups
tighter than 1/2 inch at 55 yards from a sitting position. From a bench
rest you should achieve a single hole group at this distance. CO2 powered
rifles are starting to appear, but these are not recommended for either FT, HFT
or vermin control as the build quality generally tends to be at best moderate,
frequently very poor,
and the power output is usually quite low. These are best reserved for
plinking tin cans.
The
biggest advantage of a full FT air rifle over a sporting type rifle is how it fits you. Most sporting
air rifles come with a
one
size fits all stock designed to be a reasonable fit for the majority of people.
In reality they fit most people fairly poorly and it
will compromise your ability to shoot consistently. Dedicated FT air rifles
generally have
fully adjustable stocks allowing you get an exact fit to your body which
significantly improves your accuracy.
The major failing of 'off the shelf' sporting/hunter style stocks is the height
of the cheek piece which is usually too low and the area in front of the trigger
too high. In FT we shoot the majority of shots
from a sitting position which puts your head fairly high on the stock. In
addition the scopes tend to be fairly large which requires high mounts.
It's not uncommon to find that you end up with your cheek hanging in air well
clear of the stock which is both uncomfortable and not beneficial to accuracy.
An option is to have your existing stock modified or from about £500 have a custom one made
that will fit like a glove. Most manufacturers make left handed
versions, but the choice will always be limited for lefties unless you go custom. Assuming you have a well maintained rifle from
a reputable manufacturer, a good stock will make the biggest single improvement to your
shooting. The other big advantages are a 'match trigger' which can be adjusted
almost infinitely for reach, pull and weight on both stages making them lighter and more predictable
than a typical sporting trigger unit and a regulator which improves the rifles
shot to shot consistency.
The accuracy of modern FT air rifles is incredible, and with the benefit of a
regulator (a device which measures the amount of air used to fire the pellet
more accurately than the valves found in most rifles) the shot to shot consistency is also
very good. Apart from the shooter, the pellet is the weakest link in the
equation.
There is no clear best air rifle, in competition you see a variety of old and new
rifles all performing very well. The weight, balance point and general
characteristics can make the difference between a rifle that feels natural or
not and this varies between different people. The best advice is to try
out a variety and
decide which you like most. Buying second hand can also be a good option,
especially if it's from someone in our BFTA region as there's a chance we
already know the guns history and have seen it compete.
The only other thing to be aware of is the choice of calibre. Everyone in
competitive FT uses .177 calibre because of the much flatter trajectory and although
the rules allow you to use .22 you'll be at a real disadvantage. You should also be aware
that in both HFT and FT you may not have a magazine fitted between lanes.
If you intend to compete it's worth looking at rifles that are either single
shot, or can be used without a magazine. You also need a rifle that can
fire at least 40 consistent shots from one fill. Non regulated rifles
exhibit a power curve where the first few shots from a full fill and the last
few are fired with less power making them hit low. On these rifles we've
found that under filling them by about 10-15 bar below the recommended pressure
gives a far less pronounced curve, so if your rifle manufacturer recommends a
180 bar fill, just put in 165 bar. You'll get fewer shots, but they will
be more consistent. Regulated rifles don't suffer from this
characteristic.
Am I left handed?
Sounds like a really stupid question as you probably think you already know, but
you may be surprised. In all shooting sports your dominant eye will
dictate whether you shoot left or right handed and there's a simple test we can
do to determine whether you are left or right eye dominant. Shooting a
rifle is not the same as holding a knife or throwing a spear as there's no pre
existing survival program locked away in the depths of your brain that
instinctively kicks in when you pick up a rifle. Unlike your hands, you
can't train your brain to switch the main function to the other eye and it's
almost impossible to shoot right handed if you're left eye dominant. At
the club we have left handed shooters that shoot right handed and vice versa and
we even have some that are ambidextrous! Your eyes dictate which way you
shoot and unfortunately there's no other way. It only takes 30 seconds for
us to
check at the club or alternatively your optician should be able to tell you which eye is
dominant although you need to be careful that your dominant eye isn't the
weakest as this can swing things the other way.
Add on's and other enhancements
Most FT rifles come almost ready to shoot out of the box but there are often
things you can do to improve them. If you trawl the net and forums there
are many sources of add on bits for your rifle that 'make it much better',
silencers, air strippers, muzzle flip compensators being just a few. Some
of these items do make a difference, but most are just nicely turned pieces of
stainless and aluminium which could cause your rifle to become less accurate as
they mimic the appearance of the real thing without the engineering knowledge to
make it perform.
The general advice is to avoid after market components, however, there are some
things which are worth considering and there are a small number of people that
make some really good bits that actually work and look nice. If the fitting of an after market item
requires you to make a permanent modification that can't be reversed to your
rifle think long and hard before doing it. If it doesn't work you may be
stuck with £1000 of scrap metal or a big bill to repair the damage. There are only a few people in the
country that I'd trust to do that sort of work and even if someone has lot's of
references on a forum, ask at the club for advice first. It's worth noting
that no modification will make you shoot any better than you already do.
If you're missing most of your shots either you're not shooting as well as you'd like to
think you are, or there's something seriously wrong with your rifle that no
amount of shiny bits will ever fix. See
tuning and mods for more info.
Multi shot rifles
Current safety rules prohibit magazines being fitted between lanes at both
FT and HFT competitions as well as club events, even if they do not contain any
pellets. You can use a multishot rifle, but you'd need to remove the
magazine after every lane to comply with the safety regulations which often
involves cocking the bolt to remove the magazine and then dry firing it.
For competition use, single shot is definitely advantageous as you could be
disqualified if you forget to remove the magazine. The reason for this is
to enable you to prove your rifle is safe, with a magazine fitted you could be
loaded without realising it.
Sporting class
There are no restrictions on the rifle, although fit will
still be a critical factor.
The pro's and con's
Here are some thoughts on typical rifles of four
different types. Bear in mind that there are always exceptions to the
rule, for example it's possible to buy some really inaccurate PCP rifles, so
view this as what to expect from a mid range rifle from a reputable
manufacturer. Cheap rifles are usually pretty poor quality and if you're
on a really tight budget we'd recommend you save for a little longer and get
something reliable than hand over £100 for complete junk that's made of monkey
metal. Generally the top end rifles are over priced by some margin and are
not good value compared with a mid range sporting PCP although they may offer
features not found on lower cost models. As with most things you need to
apply the law of diminishing returns. If you want a springer expect to pay about £200 and for a
sporting PCP £450 to get something good that will be reliable and accurate. FT target rifles start at just
under £1000 and none of these will come with a scope. There's always the
second hand market, and if you know what you're looking for you can pick up a
real bargain.
Cheap rifles can be great fun and a good introduction to
shooting but don't expect to compete with it or for it to be 'accurate'.
Many of us started off with a cheap and cheerful spring gun shooting baked bean
cans and loved it, so this isn't intended to knock cheap equipment, but it will
give you a level of expectation.
| Rifle type |
Cost |
Pro's |
Con's |
Uses |
| CO2 powered |
£50-£200 |
Cheap to buy the rifle. Light weight. Usually
.22 but some are available in .177 |
Low power and often poor build quality.
Accuracy inconsistent and temperature sensitive. CO2 cartridges
are expensive and need to be obtained from a specialist shop. Can be
very nasty so generally best avoided although there are some good ones around. Can be a bit of fun if you're not too
serious about it all and has the advantages of a PCP without the need
for a divers tank. |
Shooting tin cans at closer ranges. The inherent
inconsistency of CO2 power makes it not a good bet for hunting. |
| Springer / gas ram |
£50-£500 Whiscombe's start at about £1500!! |
Can be very accurate. Self contained power unit, no need for compressed
air. Usually lower cost than a PCP. Gas ram rifles work on
the same principle as a spring but tend to
have less recoil. A tuned spring can transform a boingy rifle. Available in all calibres. |
More difficult to shoot than PCP's or CO2 due to the recoil
which can be quite violent. No instant gratification, but once mastered
are very accurate. Can take significant effort to cock the rifle.
Accuracy can fall off at longer ranges (45 yards +) and anything under
£100 is likely to be of poor quality and accuracy. |
All uses, but less suitable for competitions |
| Sporting PCP |
£200-£1200 |
Accurate and relatively easy to shoot. Virtually no effort
required to cock them. No recoil. Often available as
multishot. Usually more accurate at longer distance than a spring
rifle. Available in all calibres. Once you've shot a PCP you may
never go back to a spring rifle. |
The rifle can be expensive and requires a divers bottle to recharge it with
air which is an additional cost. Complex internals that require
regular servicing. Generally not a user maintainable rifle. |
All uses |
| FT style PCP |
£950 to 'if you need to ask, you can't afford it'. |
The most accurate and consistent of all full power air rifles. Often has a
fully adjustable
stock. Match trigger gives a much lighter pull with a very crisp
break. Very consistent shot to shot.
High number of shots per fill. Only available in .177 which is the
only calibre you should use for targets. |
Very expensive and requires a divers bottle to recharge it with air.
Can be very heavy. Loud muzzle report. Very difficult to shoot
well but once mastered are pellet perfect. Not always enjoyable to shoot due to the level of concentration
required. Can be temperamental. Internals are complex and small
defects or wear can have a huge impact on performance. |
Competition only. |
A little history
Don't think that pre-charged rifles are recent inventions, they've been
around for over 300 years and predate spring guns in fact Louis XIII used air
rifles to hunt stags and wild boar and there is some questionable evidence that
Swedish snipers used them against Napoleon's army. Compared to the powder
rifles of the time, air rifles had similar or in many cases greater power
levels, were easily as accurate, could be reloaded in a fraction of the time,
made much less noise and there was no tell tale plume of smoke to give away the
shooters position when used by the military. They recharged the rifle
using a hollow cast iron ball shaped reservoir, or a hollow iron butt on the rifle
refilled from a hand operated pump. Unlike modern PCP's which use high
pressure low volume systems, these used low pressure high volume to propel large
calibre shot.
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